


FLORENCE, Italy

Nena Espanoles: Spanish Darlings
I find that the most interesting people to watch in a foreign country are the children. Here in Spain they can sometimes be hard to find, due to the low birth rate of Spanish women, which is in turn due to the fact that Spanish women like to wait until at least 30 to marry, cherishing their independence and careers much more than American women. The children of Spain are, to put it nicely, undisciplined. To put it more harshly, if a child is screaming at the top of their lungs or getting into trouble, you will rarely find the Spanish parent that will try to get their child to stop. Most of this is due to the fact that many Spaniards have only one child, and those children are precious to these natives in a country that is quickly being filled with fresh faced immigrants. Children are coveted, and therefore allowed to do entirely whatever they want, while their mother looks on and sometimes asks if they are hungry.
Don't get me wrong- the kids I've met here aren't all bad. In fact, most are quite charming, invoking me to ask for their pictures or watch them as they play in their playground plazas. The little boys here love soccer and while the little girls enjoy the occasional kick of a ball, more often they are found huddled together in little groups playing games. Watching the doors of a school fly open when the bell rings and seeing the kids stream out, sometimes all in matching jumpsuits, with parents screaming "ven aqui nina!" makes me laugh and cringe as I try not to push too hard through the crowd on my way home.
Older boys like to roam the streets in packs, some with skateboards, most walking or on bikes. They ride down to the beach to practice back flips and front flips off any structure they can find, while passerby stop and stare. I wonder what would happen if one of those boys happened to land the wrong way on the ground. I don't think many Spaniards around me were thinking the same thing. Probably more along the lines of "ah, Dios Mio, what children! Ah bah! They should be inside eating!"
Once, on a day trip to Valencia, my group came upon the largest plaza I have seen so far in Spain. Probably less than a quarter square mile, the plaza was filled with cafes, a fountain of a giant man on his side glancing lazily towards the center of the square, and churro carts. The middle of the plaza was filled with literally hundred of pigeons. Fifty people were be gathered there also, grandmas with little girls, boys with skateboards, and us, the American tourist group. The Spaniards held out food to the pigeons and gladly let them sit on their hands, shoulders, and head, goading the pigeons closer and closer so their kids could touch them or so one might land on a child's sleeve. One little girl gave me the best picture I have taken so far in Spain. While her grandma held out a white pigeon to her, she lifted her hands in shock to her face, her mouth open in delight, her perfectly matching outfit only enhancing her cuteness.
The rest of the square was filled with more kids, dressed impeccably for a Saturday out, playing with the pigeons, chasing pigeons, trying to grab them, hold them, take them home. Spanish kids really live the good life. Their moms are just as concerned with their child's clothes as they are with their own, they feed them as much food as is possible to stuff inside them, and they insist on the kids living with them until they are at least 30. As one of my professors told me the day she was moving out "My mom asked me if maybe I should wait a few more years to move out. You are still just a child, she told me. I was 28."
Another time, as my friend and I were walking randomly through the tiny side streets near the Castillo Santa Barbara, we happened upon two little girls jumping from stairs and daring the other to see how many stairs they could take at once. The girls, dressed in matching outfits and looking exactly alike, looked at us in surprise and when we asked to take their picture, stood next to each other and vaguely smiled, then ran off after a voice that compelled them to come in to eat their lunch.
I have even seen a 3-year-old child out past midnight, one night in the barrio in Alicante. Children here don't eat their dinner until 10, so they do not sleep until long after. Spanish parents find it very acceptable to take your child to tapas or to the local bar. And these kids take it all in stride, finding good times under tables or running around outside the bar.
Listening to the Spanish children talk has also helped me with my own Spanish. And although they might just be saying (as one small boy did for about five minutes), "pedo, pedo, pedo (fart, fart, fart)", at least I have learned some useful things from these Spanish kids, who eat blood sausage for lunch, play on the beach all afternoon, and get to take siestas their whole lives, not just until they turn five.



A 20-year-old woman from the southwest U.S. researches Chile and Chilean society for her Arizona State University, Barrett Honors College photojournalism thesis. She will travel to the country this summer to continue her research.